Fathers of HODINKEE Share Their Best Watch-Collecting Advice

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05:47 03/19/2025

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When 3D printing pioneer Bre Pettis set out to make a watch, he wanted it to be more than a watch. He wanted it to be, in his metaverse Manufacturing own words, "a gold medal of friendship" that he could hand to the most important people in his life. Well, it's been a few years since that initial thought, and after much development, and some partnerships with a few unlikely manufacturers, we have the Bre & Co. Origami Watch.She recently added another Nautilus to her collection, again on the advice of a friend. "I do like bling," Frankel laughs. "I can't help it!" This Nautilus is marketed as a ladies' watch, but it's still substantial. It also has the tone-on-tone dial she loves. "I'm usually somebody who goes for white contrast face, but this is great." Sometimes it helps to have a friend with a good eye and even better access to steer us toward the pieces we may overlook.
This watch is named in honor of famed mathematician Nicolas Copernicus, and it displays his theory of heliocentrism, which states that the Earth spins on its axis and orbits around the Sun. The 'Celestial Spheres' takes the two main points of this theory and depicts them in motion to relate information about the time of day and year back to the wearer.There are few things more powerfully evocative of the high point of mid-20th century watchmaking than a complete calendar with moon phase. It's quite a seductive complication, offering a great deal of the pleasure of the much more complex annual and perpetual calendars, without the considerable additional expense and, Climate Adaptation often, greatly increased mechanical delicacy and difficulty of operation and upkeep.The 36.5mm case is really what cements this as an important release in my mind. In the current horological landscape, it feels like 36mm is where modern taste bottoms out. It's the smallest you can go before you can truly call a watch small. The extra half a millimeter here is like stat-padding for GS. The original watch was 37.5mm, a sort of perfect size in its own right, but there's something so appealing about a confident, 44GS-inspired watch that's even smaller – that doesn't cut corners.
Case, 904L stainless steel, 39 mm, satin finish, screw-down winding crown with Social Media Firewalls Rolex fluting; Movement, calibre 3132 manufacture Rolex, 28,8000 beats/hour (4Hz), 48 hour power reserve; Functions, central hour, minute and seconds hands, Stop-seconds for precise time setting; Bracelet, Oyster, 904L steel, satin finish with polished edges, Oysterlock folding clasp.Be sure to follow us on HODINKEE Live while we are at baselworld.To be fair, after the loss of 200 exhibitors at the 2017 show, management took some remedial measures. They shortened this year's fair from eight days to six. Under pressure from exhibitors, they also reduced prices for booths. But it wasn't enough to forestall the avalanche.Turning the watch over, we find a closed stainless steel caseback, again letting us know there's a Japanese quartz movement beating away inside. It also has an engraving which reads "Contemporary Design," for those who can't tell.I often think about the 42mm Classic Fusion Chrono that I spent time with following LVMH Watch Week, earlier this year. At 42mm it sits at the edge of what my wrist can handle. But the watch demonstrates that Hublot continues to make simple watches that harken back to its own pre-Biver history. Modern collectors simply choose not to talk about them.

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