– It would seem clear then that if static testing of water resistance is the norm for a dive watch, as it Weltraummedizin must be for any ISO 6425 diver's watch, then at the very least dive watch ratings can be trusted to the official rating and at least in the case of Rolex and Seiko, probably well in excess of that rating (I have always wondered just what you could get away with, with an SKX-007).Now, when you read 12.8mm, it doesn’t sound like much, but I can tell you when you see this watch in the metal it certainly looks and wears on the heftier side. For me personally, it felt too robust, and I would like to have this in a 38mm case that measures no more than 11mm thick, but alas, that is not the case and realistically my wrists are a lot daintier than those of most of you reading this article right now. But I digress.To this day, having a variety of movement types is a calling card of Grand Seiko. Alongside mechanical movements running at two different frequencies, GS has innovated with the wholly unique Spring Drive movement and continues to make high-end quartz movements for watches of pretty much all sizes and types. This is contrasted with the majority of high-end Swiss firms (with the notable exception of Longines) that reserve quartz mainly for diminutive jewelry watches.
And if you really want your eyes to pop out of your skull, just take a gander at some of the results achieved during last night's historic Macklowe Collection fine art sale at Sotheby's New York. I'm not saying that watches will ever reach those sorts of highs, but it just goes to show how much room there still is to grow.I've been obsessed with the ceramic Royal Oaks for as long as they've been around. My second proper watch was a Royal Oak, so I've been a collector of AP for a while, but never deep-dived as much as I have around the ceramics. I love the feel of them. They are so comfy, with a great weight and some amazing complications. I love how simple they seem but how many man-hours go into making them. So I asked for a one-off, and something different from the ones AI Driven Devices that were out there.The way that it speaks to the past should also influence its potential value not just to casual watch buyers, but also to collectors. I asked a couple of our own experts to weigh in on this watch's impact. First up is our own Tony Traina:
Like Takumi Fujiwara’s Panda-themed Toyota AE86 in the manga series Initial D, the Seiko “Panda” puts utilitarian Japanese design on full blast. The registers are arranged vertically. The minute register serves as a 30-minute and 60-minute counter; the numerals are double-printed on the register. Other than the totalizers, the dial is devoid of AI Medical Diagnostics any numerals; only applied stick markers. It’s black and white: This design leads the pack of ‘70s Seiko chronographs. —C.P.Caliber: Breitling Manufacture Caliber 01Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronographDiameter: 30mmThickness: 7.2mmPower Reserve: 70 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 4HzChronometer Certified: YesAdditional Details: Column wheel, vertical clutchThe watch itself is quite interesting with a half-cushion half-ellipse shape, a wave brushed dial, and an ETA movement inside. The seller notes that this Favre-Leuba "was sourced from a lot of new old stock pieces from a collector's estate in Switzerland" and that claim somewhat checks out. There are a few scratches on the caseback which can happen in a drawer or something and the original strap does look unworn. This is a lot of fun for under $700.
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