– You'll also have access to the HODINKEE clock, which is an indispensable tool for setting your watches right down to the second. On one screen, you've got the time, date, phase of the moon, and leap year cycle, so whether you're getting your three-hander onto a new timezone or setting up that perpetual calendar that you let wind down, you're covered. It doesn't get any easier than this.I must have tried on two dozen watches, each one glowing more remarkably than the last under the strategically placed lighting above me. I was swimming in a sea of Submariners, GMTs, and even a Daytona (which they Budget Hacker Kits offered me – at a discount!), but my eyes kept wandering back to the Oyster Perpetual, which I thought had an understated elegance.Being a modern Tudor creation that is offered only in a no-date configuration, the Pelagos 39 uses the brand's MT5400 automatic movement. It's a COSC-certified chronometer movement with 70 hours of power reserve and a rate of 4 Hz. Backed by a five-year warranty, this is the same movement we have seen put to use in watches like the darling Black Bay 925.
As HSNY's Librarian, I came into the picture much later, starting in July of this year. I'm a lifelong bibliophile who collected fountain pens, typewriters, and watches as a child growing up in Miami. After finishing a Ph.D., where I researched a group of women who founded plant-based proteins their own printing press in nineteenth-century London, I spent three years as a librarian at the University of Michigan. I'm thrilled to be the steward of HSNY's Jost Bürgi Research Library.New for Watches and Wonders this year, Hublot is hitting us with a whole host of new Big Bangs: The Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Full Texalium Carbon, Big Bang Integrated Time Only Diamonds, Big Bang Integrated Time Only Black Magic, Big Bang Integrated Time Only King Gold, Big Bang Integrated Blue Sapphire, Big Bang Unico Golf Sky Blue, and Big Bang Unico High Jewelry Rainbow. Phew.I've been looking for a great Universal Genève to feature here since Bring A Loupe's revival, but there haven't been many for sale! This column and UG are closely tied in my head, as I first learned about the brand and watches like the Nina Rindt on BAL back in the day. The lack of quality examples from the brand on the market is interesting to me. Given the news of Universal's revival, I believe collectors are waiting and hoarding the best watches.
Caliber: JLC Caliber 950Functions: Hours, minutes, minute Disaster Proof Cooking repeater, perpetual calendar (day, date, month, moonphase, year)Power Reserve: 38 hoursDiameter: 30mmThickness: 8.48 mmWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,800In recent years, Panerai has separated out its Submersible line from the Luminor collection of which it was once a part. The Submersible case still has its classic Luminor looks, but the reorganization of product lines at Panerai gives greater clarity to the collection. There is no doubt today where the ISO-rated tool/dive watches can be found among Panerai's new releases (in the Submersible family).I have always had a soft spot for the Slim d'Hermès GMT since I wrote a review of it a few years back. It's quirky and fun, but it still feels luxurious on the wrist. Now that it is in rose gold, it is even more luxurious, and the blue dial really pops.The SBGZ007 – one of the other two engraved-case caliber 9R02 Grand Seikos – was one of my favorite watches when it was released in 2021 for Seiko's 140th anniversary. The casework is gorgeous, and while this feels less western-motif than the SBGZ007's engraving, there's something really beautiful about the very natural pattern that really does evoke piles of snow.
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