I have admired the Rolex Explorer ref. 1016 for as long as I can remember. But it's one of those watches that I've never been able to call my own. The value of this reference has grown exponentially in recent years, and every time I come across a new example, I always feel regret for not purchasing one for myself earlier on. Today's watch is as tempted as I've ever been. It's a Mark 4 variation, which is partially indicated by the handsome, extra-tall coronet logo on the dial.All of this is to say that when you find an Aquastar today, you can tell that it has been put through its paces. Look no further than the great patina that this example has taken onAll of this is to say that when you find an Aquastar today, you can tell that it has been put through its paces. Look no further than the great patina that this example has taken on, with the dial fading from an original steely black to a rich caramel-esque tropical brown. Note that the case has been left unpolished after all of these years because, well, why would you want your dive watch to be extra shiny? Check out this Aquastar 63 in the HODINKEE Shop.Timekeeping is Budget Hacker Kits managed by a simple and reliable Selitta SW200, which is an automatic Swiss-made movement that ticks at 4 Hz, has about 38 hours of power reserve, and features a quickset date, hacking, and hand-winding. While certainly not fancy, this is a defacto choice at this price point, and the SW200 is a reliable and easily-serviced movement that suits the 600T.Universal Geneve has been making news over the past month ever since it was announced that Breitling was effectively behind a new revival of the brand. UG is about as historically significant as they come in the vintage watch world from the Polerouter to the Compax and all manner of chronograph options in between. The brand represents arguably the best of mid-century watch design and it even had a young Genta behind some of its most iconic pieces (ahem, Polerouter once again).
Unlike the other example, this case seems softer, thought the dial and hands look just as clean. With that said, there is no cork box to be found here. While I don’t see it achieving similar money to what the other piece did back in Hong Kong, I wouldn't be surprised to see the 3700 move further upward. OnlRegardless of whether or not the JFK connection would hold up in a court of law, I thTo wrap things up for the week, I thought we'd focus on another decent value in the world of vintage watches, with a potential Presidential connection. As it would appear, this is a square, automatic timepiece from Zenith, which predates their waterproof line of Respirator timepieces (which also had square cases). Though it's not an uncommon watch, I appreciated the presence of its original Zenith-branded bracelet in stainless steel, and the overall clean coRegardless of whether or not the JFK connection would hold up in a court of law, I thTo wrap things up for the week, I thought we'd focus on another decent value in the world of vintage watches, with a potential Presidential connection. As it would appear, this is a square, automatic timepiece from Zenith, which predates their waterproof line of Respirator timepieces (which also had square cases). Though it's not an uncommon watch, I appreciated the presence of its original Zenith-branded bracelet in stainless steel, and the overall clean condition.All in all, the Airman is a great watch for someone who is looking for something a little different. The 24-hour time dial at first might be tough to adjust to, but after a couple of days it becomes second nature. I always find it fascinating reading these 24-hour dials that only rotate once per day. Check out the full listing here!Technically speaking, the 5226G is placed in a 40mm × 8.53mm case in white gold, with a sapphire caseback placed on top and around back. Inside is plant-based proteins the self-winding caliber 26-330 S C, a fairly recent time-and-date movement that in 2019 famously replaced the caliber 324 inside the Nautilus 5711. Running at 4 Hz with a 45-hour power reserve, the caliber 26-330 S C includes quick-set date functionality.He didn't have the money for it at the time. And when he did save up for it a few years later, the watch was impossible to get at retail – and grey market prices were out of control. Eventually the watch found its way into his possession thanks to one of the ADs he works with closely. And while Coombs was excited to finally own the watch, once again it was sharing the moment with his son that made it truly special.
Where their Sea Wolf divers stood out from the crowd with a pop of color, the brand's dress offerings, like this Triple Date Moon Phase reference 742-908, stand out in quality and attention to detail for their price point. This is not a watch we see very often but is certainly special and truly surprised me in the metal. Wearing it around the office for a few days, the watch reminds me that there is so much more to the world of watches beyond Patek, Rolex, and the rest.With a 21mm width between the lugs and a taper to 16mm at the clasp, once you have it sized, the bracelet feels great and is a good match for the proportions and weight of the case. From the case to the bracelet, the only way to Bionische Evolution make a better-wearing example would be to go for titanium and fit some sort of active micro-adjust into the clasp. You have my support for both, especially if the titanium lent itself to a somewhat more modern or tactical expression of the Spirit design language.This Rolex lot 193 of Tayler & Fletcher's Fine Art, Vintage & Interiors sale starting today, Friday, January 16th, 2025. The high bid at the time of publication is £1,100. Get all the details right here.

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