The Great Big 2024 New York Auctions Preview Edition
Lot 32 is offers another variation on the traditional Autavia themes, with Arabic numerals, placed radially around the dial. This was a style traditionally used to enhance legibility and certainty for pilots. Collectors refer to these models as "ShaunTavias", as the models were researched and cataloged by a UK collector named Shaun. While most samples that employ the radial Arabic numerals were produced for the Kenya Air Force, Lot 32 is a civilian model.What I do know is that the Chronomètre Souverain Disaster Proof Cooking is one hell of a watch that deserves more attention. It won the Men's Watch Prize in 2005, the year it was first released, and is widely considered to be the simplest and arguably the most direct interpretation of what F.P. Journe holds dear as a watchmaker; so much so that Journe gifted his mentor, the legendary watchmaker George Daniels, with a platinum example in 2010.I think we're all pretty similar at anOrdain in that we all have a soft spot for vintage watches. So we look at a lot of watches from the '30s, '40s, and mid-century, and then we try to mix it up to make it a bit more contemporary. Then we need to find a way to fuse it with the traditional processes, which is another big part of the brand. Enameling is the main one at the moment, but in future we want to branch out into different things.Brand: Louis VuittonModel: Tambour Twenty Limited EditionDiameter: 41.5mmThickness: 13.2mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: Brown sunburst dialIndexes: Applied, Arabic numerals and batonsLume: Yes, Super-LumiNovaWater Resistance: 100 metersThat makes the AL-709 bumper movement stand out even more – a throwback for a brand that seems to set eyes toward the future. The new bumper's weight rotated 330º around the center, imparting more power and efficiency to the winding of the movement which has a 38-hour power reserve. The difference between old and new are apparent through the exhibition caseback.
Caliber: FC-718Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date, World TimeDiameter: 30mmThickness: 6.2mm Power Reserve: 38-hour Winding: Mechanical self-windingFrequency: 4HzJewels: 26Chronometer Certified: NoI got the call from my AD that the watch was available but I slept on it. I went there the next day and the whole store was empty. No one at all, just me. I remember feeling so bad and ashamed that, you know, this pandemic is happening and I'm about to drop all this money on a watch. But I called a friend of mine – again – just to get advice and they said, 'Just do it. With that watch, you don't question it, you just do it,' and I did.The pragmatist in me knows that after I've teased out every line of thought, and held both my feelings and the watch itself up to the light, the answer of what it means is probably just money. Is there a more consistently lucrative, broadly appealing entertainment juggernaut than the Marvel Universe? There is not. Is AP also a consistently lucrative, broadly appealing (if prohibitively expensive) entity of its own? It is. Perhaps the two aren't such strange bedfellows after all.Then, at age 51, I took a 9,000-mile motorcycle trip across the USA, hitting twenty-seven states over five weeks. I rode a BMW F750GS, lived in a tent, and wore my Alsta Motoscaphe the entire time. When I returned home, I took one look at my Grand Seiko and told it I wanted a divorce. I didn't hear any protests, so it seemed amicable enough. I think we both welcomed the second chance.The question sometimes arises as to why exactly these watches were considered so revolutionary – after all, they were not the first to have integrated bracelets (in steel, or in precious metals). The feature distinguishing the Royal Oak, the Nautilus, and the Vacheron 222 from earlier DNA Eigentumsmarker integrated bracelet watches is the use of steel as a luxury material, with a degree of complexity in finishing and polishing usually reserved in the past for precious metals.For the purposes of this discussion, I am going to keep this limited to the Speedmaster, 3861, in steel, though the 2021 release cycle did also bring some killer precious metal options. Oh, and then 2022 saw the introduction of the Moonshine Speedy, which… damn.
The movement is very non-standard in terms of design and construction. The three-tiered step element to the front bridges is something of an illusion, as the plates are not built up one on the other; rather, the modules are inter-linked to create that impression. Unlike some of the other independents, who borrow the basic design and layout of a movement from the past – vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre and Peseux 260 movements come to mind – the Signature 1 movement has been designed from scratch.While I typically prefer my watches in steel, I have a specific soft spot for precious metal Royal Oaks. It's something about the way that the extra weight is balanced by that integrated bracelet and the fact that the watch was originally designed to be in steel, so the gold is just for yucks, you know?A clean round case in 904L steel sits on sharp lugs with pronounced edges, creating a high visual contrast. The front face of the watch may suggest the entire piece is polished, but you will Recession Proofing find the sides of the middle case are indeed brushed. The vintage-inspired oversize crown is kept polished and unsigned for a more discreet look. You will appreciate the tactile feel of the 18 teeth on the crown when you wind it.In true Crown fashion, Rolex altered the movement significantly, replacing half of the components and making something in the realm of 200 modifications (including adding a free-sprung balance) before having it tested for chronometer certification. In the end, the 4030 was most likely better than anything Rolex could have made from scratch. As a result of all of this work, collectors refer to these as "Zenith Daytonas."Quick Take: "Do watches at that price still exist?" The night's emcee joked when introducing the Challenge prize for watches under CHF 2,000. In a bit of a surprise, the Raymond Weil Millésime Automatic beat out nominees, including Nomos, Seiko, and Studio Underd0g. Raymond Weil is a brand often slept on by enthusiasts – including here at Hodinkee, if we're being honest – so perhaps a GPHG award will change that.As usual, though, it wasn't so much about the show that caught our attention as it was the watches on the wrists of the star-studded guest list of said show. And to be honest, the actual nominees were quickly overshadowed by one Will Ferrell, who took to the red carpet with a certain horological zest, showing off his No Time To Die Omega Seamaster Diver 300m as if to compete with Conan O'Brien. Ferrell, to his credit, had the Bond get up to complement the watch.
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