– Will lives in St. Louis, MO, and is the proud owner of this Doxa Sub 1200T. It's special to him because his father designed the cover image for the Doxa Diving With Legends book; that same image also appears on the watch – a billige patek-philippe ure limited edition of 99 that Doxa produced to commemorate the launch of the book.After surviving about a month of abusive duty on my own wrist, I can see why it's become a favorite of folks serving in roles that would subject it to even more significant abuse. To understand how the watch is tested to meet those demands, I put in a request to speak to the top brass at Marathon.The Excalibur Monobalancier also features an updated 42mm case in Roger Dubuis' patented EON GOLD alloy, an improved type of 5N gold that is "more resistant to tarnishing when exposed to extreme conditions," per the company. The sharply notched fluted bezel carries over from previous Excalibur watches, while the case has been primarily sand-blasted but retains a few polished angles.After some study and thought, I committed myself to a simple design: using a three-quarter plate layout, with the entire going train placed underneath one bridge and a separate bridge for the balance. The ratchet click would be changed from the instantly recognizable 6497 base format to one inspired by a 1920s-era E. Howard & Co. pocket watch that had belonged to my namesake, my great-great-grandfather.I know, I know this will never happen. But! I think the 1926 deserves a little more time in the spotlight and what better way to grab the attention of the tradeshow going public than to put out a classic dress watch in one of your more controversial materials.With such a crowded competitive landscape, it's commendable Raymond Weil is even pursuing this corner of the market with the Millesime. Raymond Weil is still a young brand, and one of the few in Switzerland that remains independent and family-owned. It's nice seeing a well-known brand like Raymond Weil – granted, one that's not known for this type of watchmaking pursuing "brand legitimacy" (its own words) by appealing to enthusiasts with heritage and history.
I have kept some watches. Some are personal watches I bought from collaborative projects through the Armoury, other groups I'm a part of, or worked personally with the watchmaker on. I'm also keeping some vintage watches, like old falsi bell-ross orologi chronographs that wouldn't make much sense in the auction, and the things that I wear regularly. But I'm still letting go of about 80 percent of what I own.Lume on all three looks great, with the obvious showboat being the lume dial varient, which still manages excellent legibility thanks to the dark grey surrounds of the hour and minute hands. Also, extra points all around for the luminous bezel execution, the fully-lumed 0-15 track on the diver, and for how the hour markers work in conjunction with the lume and the 24-hour markings on the dial.00:10Jean Arnault00:11Rexhep Rexhepi00:40The LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie1:10The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize5:30Akrivia7:05Akrivia AK0114:38Jean-Pierre Hagmann Cases15:19Harry Winston Opus Series17:19Daniel Roth19:18Gerald GentaNomos Glashütte Tangente 2date. 37.5mm diameter by 6.8mm thick. 47.7mm lug-to-lug. Stainless steel case with 5atm water resistance. White silver-plated or blue sunburst dial. Hours, minutes, small seconds, date window, ring date complication. DUW 4601 manually-wound caliber with quickset date and 52 hours of power reserve. Black Horween shell cordovan leather strap. Price: $2,760 with solid caseback, $3,020 with sapphire caseback.
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