Just Because: Three Grand Seiko Boutique Pieces You Probably Haven"t Seen
I would venture to say that dial correctness for the 6240 is about as murky an area as one could possibly imagine, even in the often opaque falsi tag-heuer orologi world of vintage Rolex collecting – which brings us to the watch at hand; the 6240 "Solo."The new Tudor Black Bay P01 is born from a '60s prototype that was designed with a very unusual locking bezel mechanism at its core. In the 1960s, the tolerances on watches weren't what they are today. Back then, the mechanism that allows bezels to ratchet generally wasn’t as sturdy and well-engineered. A bezel getting knocked out of place could actually cause a problem as far as timing is concerned, and when it comes to Naval equipment, it could potentially mean a real problem.We're in this collector-driven world where we identify minute changes made to every watch, Ku says. While that's not necessarily a bad thing, he says sometimes this is done to serve the purpose of making things seem rarer than they actually are. "To me, interesting variants are those that are clearly visible to the naked eye from a few feet away. That's not the case with any of these, and there's not one version that's super rare."Deep down, while I might still be waiting for a retro dial Metric with a yellow-gold (tone) case, it's hard to argue with what Brew and Worn & Wound have brought to the table with this latest collaboration. With a footing in '70s design but an execution that feels bright, youthful, and entirely driven by the enthusiasm for watches, Brew and Worn & Wound show a continued appreciation for the fun of watches.Finally, combining the previous two picks in a way is the Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon, quite possibly one of the most interesting and underappreciated Reversos ever produced. If you're like me and find the Quadriptyque's 11 complications to be a bit much and the Duometre Spherotourbillon to be slightly too watch-nerdy, this one is for you.
The initial round of watches that have been submitted for consideration this year will be available online in July, and from there the jury will narrow the selection down to a group of finalists a few months later before meeting in the fall to decide the victors and billige patek-philippe ure present the awards at a swanky event in Geneva.John is as obsessed with watch boxes as he is with watches. This Bulova chronograph was a flea market find and has a great grey dial with white and neon orange accents that complement the barrel-shaped case. The box might be even cooler than the watch though. As you lift the translucent plastic lid, the tray holding the watch slides up to the present it to you. There's something very sci-fi about it that just screams 1970s cool.The specific and special watch in question was an early 50's reference 6098. Worn by Norgay, as Hillary was famously said to have worn a Smith's watch to the summit (both Rolex and Smiths were sponsors of the climb), this insanely important watch can be seen today at the Beyer Museum in Zurich, Switzerland (and in our Talking Watches with Mr. Réne Beyer himself).From what I can tell from Doxa's supplied images, the new SUB 300 looks to be essentially a non-limited version of the 50th Anniversary, which is frustrating to those of us who really love the 50th Anniversary models and appreciated their limited production. In identical fashion, we see a 42.5mm-wide dished case that is 13.4mm thick including the crystal and 45mm lug to lug. Likewise, the new 300 has a bubble domed crystal and a very similar dial layout.And then there was my little watch, which mechanically did not seem terribly sound but was nonetheless chugging away. It worked, and I had put the hands on so that they both pointed straight to noon, and when you went to 12:30 the hour hand was halfway between 12 and one and so on. I had done it right.Urban Jürgensen was creative and the company made its own calibers with traditional Scandinavian design. I want to bring it back to where it was, he says, hinting at the brand's future. "At their peak, they had become a reference to the rest of the industry and we have to bring it to the place where it used to be. That is the next chapter."
Silberstein is no stranger to watch collaborations. After his namesake company was declared bankrupt in 2012 he kept goedkope jaeger-lecoultre horloge a foothold in the industry by successfully partnering with the likes of MB&F and Louis Erard. Last year for the first installment of Grail Watch he worked together with Benoît Mintiens on a limited edition Ressence – a colorful and supremely unique watch that captured my attention during a particularly long stretch of stainless steel coverage.I started my watchmaking apprenticeship in Glashütte and it seemed obvious that my goal should be to someday work at A. Lange & Söhne because, at the time, I thought everything was handmade there, Pikullik says, with a bit of a wry smile. "But I was a child, thinking very romantically about watchmaking and not knowing truly what that meant or how these companies worked."But recently, Świątek has been seen on the circuit with a very different sort of Rolex, one that got a good deal of attention at Watches & Wonders 2023, but one that has flown somewhat under the radar over the past year. That would be the brand-new Rolex 1908, the successor to the Rolex Cellini.The revived Daniel Roth is introducing the next version of its Tourbillon, now in rose gold. Fresh off last year's Tourbillon Souscription, a few updates in line with the historical evolution of the tourbillon have been made, but this year's edition is largely similar, just with a rose gold case and dial.China's economic slowdown has been blamed as a major culprit for this slowdown. No doubt, the industry is a victim of economic uncertainty, but industry events such as Geneva Watch Days are kind of like political conventions or high school pep rallies, deliberately designed to gin up excitement and point focus to the actual watches.
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