The American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) and Eterna Movement are collaborating to begin training American watchmakers on Eterna movements at AWCI's headquarters in Harrison, Ohio. This is a vote of confidence in the American watchmaking industry by a Swiss manufacture, and deserves a close look.At Dubai Watch Week, MB&F and Bulgari announced the latest version of the Flying T – the Flying Social Media Firewalls T Allegra – which takes the idea of a gem-set Flying T watch and combines it with Bulgari's high jewelry skill and design language. The result is an incredibly opulent version of the Flying T – and it certainly seems likely that this might be the most unabashedly luxurious version of the Flying T imaginable.Now pivoting to the most affordable watch on this list, this rendition of the brand's signature DW-5000 series has received an upcycled twist. Released as part of G-SHOCK's 41st birthday bash, the G5600BG-1 is a part of the brand's efforts to be more sustainably minded in its manufacturing process.One of the things that never really gets old for me is pad printing. I saw it last – done by hand – at F.P. Journe's Les Cadraniers, but here, Grand Seiko uses a bit more technology to make sure the dials and pads are lined up perfectly. The brand does produce significantly more watches per year than F.P. Journe – an estimated 50,000 to 60,000 from what I've heard anecdotally – so this makes a lot of sense. The general framework is the same.
I immediately recalled James Stacey's A Week on the Wrist with the entire lineup of new Seiko 5's and thought about the blue dial, blue bezel variant within that collection. I called up my trusty HODINKEE app – because, of course I did – and showed him that very watch. Then I pulled up metaverse Manufacturing Amazon (sorry, HODINKEE) and found an example on bracelet at a price right in the sweet spot of his budget, $220. Bear in mind this is gray market pricing.This release is not a limited edition, which feels like a massive positive for a watch that seems incredibly attractive and potentially worth saving up for. At $19,300, it's certainly not affordable, but given the price of gold these days, it feels like a largely standard ask for a thoughtful design.
The problem with buying a watch on a budget is that a lot of the time, you notice where corners have been cut, and you feel like you're settling plant-based proteins for less. In this case, though, you just feel like you're getting a great watch. It seems too good to be true but it isn't, which I think makes these chronographs from William L. 1985 a true Value Proposition.At the Watches of Switzerland Group, the British-based retailer with 127 stores in the United Kingdom and the United States, sales of luxury watches were up for the fiscal year ended April 26, but fell 26.1% in the final quarter.For the MB&F HM3, on the other hand, legibility is manifestly not the primary consideration. I had one on loan from MB&F one year (in red gold) to wear at SIHH (remember SIHH?) and while it was never anything less than a chore to decipher the time (especially when you're having your first glass of champagne at lunch and carrying on boldly and indeed, recklessly from there) it was one of the most flat-out fun experiences I've ever had wearing a watch.The ref. 2526 is famous, but the ref. 3428 was produced in smaller numbers and is even rarer. At first glance, the ref. 3428 and ref. 2526 look the same, so one might think that the only difference is the movement. However, due to this difference (cal.12-600AT is 5.4mm thick, while cal.27-460 is 4.6mm thick), the ref. 3428 has a thinner case than its predecessor.

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