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Watch Of The Week: Ming"s First Tourbillon Reminds Me How Much I"ve Grown

Editor's Note: This is a translation of one of the first articles that appeared on HODINKEE Japan, our joint venture with Hearst Fujingaho that went live last month in Tokyo. In this story, Masaharu reviews his own Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15500. It is, he says, "a commemorative watch that I got when it was decided that I would join HODINKEE." We will occasionally run articles and videos from our Japanese colleagues, and we welcome them to our team.If you saw the new SBGW263 and thought, "Wow, this has to be as far as Grand Seiko can push it," boy are you going to like the SBGD205, also known as the Masterpiece Collection Spring Drive 8 Days Jewelry Watch. Based on the Spring Drive 8 Days platform that was first introduced back in 2016, this watch combines a long-running Spring Drive caliber with an engraved and gem-set dial and case for a watch that's truly over-the-top.Much like we saw with the Mark XX last year, this was sort of just sitting there on the IWC website waiting to be uncovered by snoopy watch writers like myself. There was no fanfare, just the watch. And you know what? That very well may be because this piece is not yet released in the US market yet. But there's still a little bit falsi cartier orologi of mystique around a watch this cool, just hanging out in the vastness of the world wide web.But that individual watch led to an incredible collection of TAG F1s – the likes of watch I simply didn't know existed. He's been buying NOS examples of F1s out of Japan for years now. He gives a lot of credit to the Japanese for wanting to collect these watches all the way back to the 1990s, when they were not in considered collectible at all.By the time this article is live, the raffle will be complete, and hopefully, people will find out soon if they're among the lucky 1,500 to get the new M.A.D.1S. If you're not, don't lose hope – the M.A.D.Editions line has become a staple of what Max Büsser does now, and I'd put money on more versions of the M.A.D.1S in the future. Even better? Next year, they've promised me we'll see the M.A.D.2, and all the madness will start again.


Slated for delivery sometime this August, the Doxa Sub 300 "Silver Lung" is available for pre-order now for $2,190, but the price rises to $2,490 after the preorder period has ended. It's a shining double dose of vintage-inspired dive watch design, and for the diver or dive watch nerd, it's hard to beat that falsi bvlgari orologi Aqua Lung logo on the dial.And in turn, we, the public, often find ourselves disappointed when the brand doesn't address each and every one of our personal needs. We howl when conservative Rolex designers don't reach for the stars – or even when they literally do. The new meteorite Daytonas have dials made from a material from outer space, and somehow that's still not ambitious enough.Tang says he has even turned away investors that have approached him about Zelos."I've had [investors approach me], but that isn't really my plan or intention, so I prefer to keep it all to myself," he says. "I still want to keep the decision-making to myself. It's much easier to run a brand when you're in full control."The reasons I liked this watch: It's very simple so the Rolex crown logo at 12 o'clock really sticks out. It's also time only. I felt like I'd never get tired of looking at it – though, as watch owners, we always know that's not how it works. I liked its strength and sturdiness.






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