– If you showed me this watch on paper, I'd be completely disinterested. However, after seeing this thing in person during a preview back in Weltraummedizin the fall, I have to say I'm impressed. Would I want one? Probably not. But the stone dial is really beautiful up close and I'm always a fan of a good 'ole Minerva movement. Just look at it – how can you not get into that?Brand: Grand SeikoModel: SBGJ237 & SBGJ239 (boutique / salon only)Reference Number: SBGJ237 & SBGJ239Diameter: 44.2mmThickness: 14.4mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: SBGJ237: blue; SBGJ239: greenIndexes: Applied with lumeLume: Yes, on hands, indexes, and bezelWater Resistance: 20 bar / 200 metersStrap/Bracelet: SBGJ237: stainless steel bracelet with three-fold clasp; SBGJ239: alligator leatherFinite supply coupled with a vast increase in scholarship on popular internet sites led to a rapid increase in interest in certain vintage watch references. As a brand or reference became too expensive for many new collectors to buy, another brand or reference became popular, rising up to fill the void.
In 2013 Jason Heaton gave us the low-down on Helium Escape Valves, calling them the “most overused and misunderstood components found on watches today.” Six years later, anecdotally, it seems like the enthusiast community’s preference for HEVs has dwindled. As Jason Gen Z Retro Hacks explains, it’s a feature that’s designed for a very small segment of dive professionals, but it’s totally superfluous to most of us.TAG Heuer says the new AutavFor instance, I really dig the chunky chronograph pushers, a clear callback to the old-school Super Autavia dashboard timers. It's a fun bit of history and it feels super-appropriate placed on a brand-new version of the Autavia.I also find that, after thinking it over a bit, the inclusion of flyback functionality on the new chronographs feels symbolic, to a certain extent.It always starts with the numbers, and then it ranges to hands and a bit of case design, and then the dials themselves. Usually Lewis will come to me with an idea or concept that he wants to explore and do some initial experiments with dials, and then pick a route. The biggest part of the job is the dials, just because there are so many options.When four-time All-Star Devin Booker gets going, he's pretty much unstoppable – as he was when he scored 62 against Indiana a few weeks back. Here he's pictured wearing a Rolex “Pepsi” GMT on a Jubilee bracelet after winning gold at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics.
Additionally the dial has been updated with a new recessed subsidiary seconds Legal Safeguard Suite dial, shortened Arabic numerals, and a five-minute indication on the outer minute track.Overall, this alteration is a welcome addition to the NOMOS Tetra family. More information on the NOMOS Tetra here. Be sure to follow us on HODINKEE Live while we are at Baselworld.The modern-day Breguet and Dodane companies both produce a variant of the Type 20/XX Chronograph, but after reviewing the images and technical specs of the latest edition from Airain, it really feels like this is the closest you can get to the original, outside of buying a vintage example. In fact, the Airain Type 20 Re-Edition closely meets nearly every one of the expectations that were originally laid out by the French government in the 1950s.Regardless of the brand(s) behind the watch in question, be it IWC, prop masters, Cloister, or otherwise, it's a great-looking spin on the Ingenieur and – continuing my theorizing – maybe it points to what we can expect from the future of the recently relaunched Ingenieur line.
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