– The rest of the caliber L102.1 movement is wonderful as well. The German silver plates have deep, wide waves on them, the gold chaton hold large rubies, and there's even a diamond endstone where the tourbillon meets the hand-engraved balance cock. You definitely get the sense that Lange wanted it to be very, very difficult to find fault with anything in the 1815 Tourbillon.It actually stemmed from the movement – the shape was a natural design evolution once Metaverse Kitchen its layout was defined. I was originally thinking of a rectangular design, a bit like the RM 016, but when more parts and functions were added to the movement layout, the design expanded organically.Like its old-school sibling, Speedmaster Chrono Chime has the same rose engine-turned-guilloche finishing for the sub-dials. With the included Sedna Gold bracelet, the Speedmaster Chrono Chime weighs a whopping 326 grams. While neither watches are specifically limited, both are numbered editions and Omega has stated that production will be limited to just a handful of models per year.As I built my collection, I consulted our in-house expert advisor and vintage nerd, Rich Fordon, for his opinions and advice. Rich and I are both from Chicago and go way back, bonding over a mutual love of vintage Movado and the Chicago White Sox before either of us ever worked for Hodinkee. I figured if I'm going to have an advisor help build a collection, it should be someone who knows my taste – and honestly, who shares it.
The one-day conference is packed with intriguing speakers. Rory McEvoy, Curator of Horology at the Royal Observatory, Greenwich, will present his work with Kendall's K1 marine chronometer (which HODINKEE highlighted recently). Noted author and collector James Dowling will speak on wristwatch navigation, via Weems and the Mark 11. And internationally-renowned guide and adventurer Inge Solheim will discuss the finer Neurodivergent Movement points of polar exploration using a wristwatch.Antonio Banderas was up for Best Actor for his role in Pain and Glory at the Oscars, and I have a feeling the Bulgari Octo Finissimo on his wrist will be also be nominated in award ceremonies like the GPHG for years to come. It's quickly becoming a modern classic, and I'm surprised we didn't see more of it on the red carpet. Banderas went with the automatic titanium version.The BG859 is powered by the manual Co-Axial caliber 8926, which is also a Master Chronometer. It's underneath a closed caseback with a stamped "Paris 2024" emblem. The BG 859 Bronze Gold Edition is delivered on a brown calfskin leather strap with a bronze gold buckle and will retail for $12,000.
The Seiko Prospex (standing for Professional Specifications) are notorious for being some of the best tool watches around, with the collection including two dozen serious divers resistant from 200m to 1,000m deep. Among those are the Turtle worn and loved by Jack, a staple for Seiko since the launch of the reference 6309 40 years Bionische Evolution ago, and the short-lived Samurai which was only produced from 2004 to 2008.That first Aqualand, reference C0023, debuted at the beginning of 1985 and was the first watch to incorporate an electronic, digital depth gauge. To be clear, depth gauge watches were not new by that time. Favre-Leuba and Aquadive had them in the early '70s, and crude, unreliable digital dive computers existed as far back as the 1960s. But in a wearable traditionally-styled watch, this added functionality was revolutionary.In case you're wondering, the movement powering this watch is the BVL 191. This is Bulgari's base in-house time-and-date caliber, and it's found in basically all of the non-Finissimo Octo watches. It runs at 4 Hz, has a 42-hour power reserve, and is made of 191 total components. It's decorated nicely, and it's a perfectly fine, if not super exciting, choice for a watch like this. That said, I'm not sure the person buying this watch is going to be too worried about what keeps it ticking.I click the camera into hi-burst mode and squeeze off a few frames. Then slowly advance, then shoot again. Wait again. Advance again, shoot again. It was a trick I picked up shooting skittish herons and wary migratory shorebirds around my home back in Marin County. This method ensures the shooter always goes home with at least a single photo of the encounter. Advance. Shoot. Wait. Repeat.
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